From egg rolls to noodle soups, Hmong historically have passed recipes through word of mouth, not recipe cards. But as more time passes, there’s fear things might get lost in translation.
So, Sheng Yang, who is Hmong and grew up in the United States, decided to write a cookbook and record the recipes. ‘Cooking From the Heart’ (University of Minnesota Press), co-written with family friend Sami Scripter, was released this year.
Ilean Her, executive director of the Council for Asian Pacific Minnesotans, agrees it’s important to record Hmong culture. St. Paul has the largest Hmong population — 25,000 — of any city in the country.
‘In Minnesota, Hmong culture has gone mainstream. You can easily get ingredients you need at stores and farmers’ markets,’ Her says. ‘You can even find people to ask for cooking advice. It’s one of the best places in the country for Hmong cuisine.’
Hmong food is influenced by Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and southern China, countries where Hmong have lived. So, Yang thinks people who like those cuisines may enjoy Hmong dishes.
‘People will be surprised to find they’re already familiar with many of the ingredients,’ Yang says. ‘But some of the cooking techniques will be different.’
Q&A WITH COOKBOOK AUTHOR
Sheng Yang, a California mother of six, worried Hmong cooking traditions would die out. She set out to preserve the recipes and the traditions behind them in “Cooking From the Heart,” a collection of classic Hmong recipes. Here, Yang, 39, talks about what it took to get it all down.
Question: What made you decide to write this cookbook?
Answer:(Co-author) Sami Scripter and I used to live in Portland, Ore. I introduced her to Hmong food, and she loved it. Hmong culture doesn’t write everything down, so there weren’t recipes to pass on. We decided to record them for the next generation of Hmong as well as those who want to try cooking the cuisine for the first time.
Question: Without any previous recipes to build on, was it tough putting together this cookbook?
Answer: It was quite challenging. Hmong people don’t measure things when cooking. We had to guess how many tablespoons or cups something was until we got the flavors right. Some of the dishes took a few tries.
Question: Hmong food isn’t celebrated in the culinary world. Why not?
Answer: Hmong people haven’t had tons of opportunities to introduce people to our cuisine. There aren’t a lot of Hmong restaurants or recipes. Hopefully, that will start changing a little with this cookbook. Title: “Cooking From the Heart”
ABOUT THE COOKBOOK
By: Sheng Yang and Sami Scripter
Publisher: University of Minnesota Press
Price: $29.95
Where to find: Widely available, including at Barnes & Noble bookstores or online at www.upress.umn.edu
For more information:hmongcooking.com
RECIPES FROM THE COOKBOOK
In their book “Cooking From the Heart,” Sheng Yang and Sami Scripter offer more than 100 traditional Hmong recipes. If you’re new to cooking Hmong dishes, Yang suggests starting with these two easy recipes.
Stuffed Bitter Melon
Yang likes this soup because it’s refreshing. She says while western culture might not be used to the bitterness of this type of melon, it’s believed to have medicinal qualities and is a great thing to eat when you’re under the weather.
Makes 8 to 10 servings.
2 quarts water (or enough to cover bitter melon as it cooks)
1 bulb/stock lemon grass, cleaned, chopped into 3-inch pieces
6 medium ripe bitter melons (seeds will be red)
1 pound lean ground pork or chicken
1/2 bunch cilantro, finely chopped
4 green onions, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
Dash black pepper
To prepare bitter melon: Rinse melons. Cut each in half widthwise. Using small spoon, scoop out seeds and surrounding pith, so center is hollow and melon’s thick shell is intact.
To make filling: Using hands, mix meat, cilantro, green onion and seasonings. Fill hollowed-out bitter melons with meat mixture. (Note: If there is extra pork mixture, make small meatballs.)
To cook: In pot, bring water to a boil over high heat. Add chopped lemon grass. Place stuffed melons and any meatballs in water. Reduce heat to simmer. Cook for 20 minutes or until filling is cooked and melon is soft.
To serve: Cut each melon half into 2-inch thick slices. Return to pot. Serve melon and broth together in soup bowls.
Chicken Larb Salad
Yang loves to serve this appetizer whenever she is having company. Most people are familiar with the ingredients, so it’s a safe way to introduce them to a new dish. And more important, kids love it and will eat it. “This is usually at the center of the table whenever there’s a big feast,” says Yang, who usually serves the dish alongside cooled sticky rice. Most of the ingredients for this recipe can be found at major grocery stores. Sticky rice flour might be harder to come by. Look for it at Asian supermarkets.
Makes 8 servings.
2 whole boneless chicken breasts or 3 pounds ground chicken or turkey
Juice of 2 large limes
2 tablespoons rice wine
2 teaspoons ginger, minced
1 stalk lemongrass, tough outer leaves, root and top several inches removed and then minced
3 teaspoons grated lemon peel
2 small hot chile peppers, minced (or 1 teaspoon crushed hot-pepper flakes)
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
3 tablespoons toasted sticky rice flour
1 chicken bouillon cube
1 cup mint, chopped
1 cup cilantro, chopped
1 bunch green onions, chopped
1/2 cup Thai basil, chopped
1 large head leaf lettuce, such as iceberg or red leaf
Garnish:
A few sprigs mint
A few sprigs cilantro
1 lime, cut into wedges
To cook chicken: If not already ground, finely chop chicken on large cutting board. Put meat in large bowl. Squeeze lime juice over chicken. Add rice wine. In nonstick skillet (don’t use any oil), cook chicken mixture over medium-high heat, tossing and stirring constantly, until meat just turns white. Place mixture and any accumulated juice in clean bowl. Cool to room temperature.
To make larb: Add ginger, lemongrass, lemon peel, chile peppers, garlic, fish sauce, salt, white pepper and rice flour to cooled chicken. Break apart chicken bouillon cube. Sprinkle over top. Toss ingredients until well mixed. Add mint, cilantro, green onions and Thai basil. Gently toss to combine.
To serve: Break lettuce leaves away from head. Wash and dry. Arrange leaves on large platter. Scoop 1/4 cup larb onto each lettuce leaf. Garnish with mint and cilantro sprigs and wedges of lime. Direct diners to roll up lettuce leaf to eat it.
